Art Deco Influences on Jewellery

The term "Art Deco" has become a collective term for almost any object of conscious design, whether sophisticated or naive, if it was created between the first and second World Wars. It was through Art Deco that modern art initiating in fine arts, transposed itself into applied arts. Art Deco is credited for presenting an array of bold designs- strong in form and colours, leaving behind the highly embellished, curvilinear and stylized natural forms as were dominant in the preceding Art Nouveau style. Society at this time was moving into a fast, industrialized, practical- machine age. Everyone marveled at the man made advances and celebrated technology. The modern fascination with speed and machines inspired artists and designers to incorporate dynamic geometric forms to express and reflect these phenomenons. Art Deco is an abbreviation of the title of the most important Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernsheld in Paris in 1925 [1]. The primary reasons which attribute to this exhibition were, firstly, it was an attempt to forget the four intervening years of nightmare during the First World War; secondly, France wanted to re-assert her position as the ruler of taste and style and lastly, to show the world that French taste would once again lead the way in evolving a new international style. The First World War, being a major stimulant, completely changed the picture of modern living especially the position and role of the women [2]. With their husbands at the forefront, women had to take up 'men-oriented jobs' which previously they had never indulged into. From voluminous gowns, their clothing was brought down to short, loose-fitting costumes. Fashion reflected the fact that women were more independent than ever before. Women were bobbing their hair into short styles, wearing makeup, and smoking in public. The silhouette of the modern dynamic woman was more tubular, and hence, designs had to be created which would go along with the streamlined attire. The forms of the day required jewellery with simple lines and vivid colours to complete the detail of the outfit. With more of skin show, most widely used jewellery included, neckwear-pendants, wrist wear bracelets and watches, brooches, ear ornaments-long danglers, and rings taking the size of signet rings.